RU Ge,XU Yong,HAN Jing,et al.Determination of α-hydroxy acids in cosmetics by UHPLC-MS/MS[J].Shanghai Journal of Preventive Medicine,2024,36(04):399-408.. doi: 10.19428/j.cnki.sjpm.2024.23583
Citation: RU Ge,XU Yong,HAN Jing,et al.Determination of α-hydroxy acids in cosmetics by UHPLC-MS/MS[J].Shanghai Journal of Preventive Medicine,2024,36(04):399-408.. doi: 10.19428/j.cnki.sjpm.2024.23583

Determination of α-hydroxy acids in cosmetics by UHPLC-MS/MS

  • Objective To establish a UHPLC-MS/MS quantitative method for the determination of glucuronic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, DL-2-hydroxybutyric acid sodium, mandelic acid, benzilic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconic acid and N-acetylneuraminic acid in cosmetics.
    Methods Samples were prepared by ultrasonic extraction, cleansed by precipitating reagent and followed by high-speed centrifugation of the extraction solution. The supernatant was filtered by 0.22 μm Millipore filter. The continued filtrate was taken for analysis. A reversed phase column, Poroshell 120 EC-C18 (2.7 μm, 4.6 mm×1 000 mm) was used with 0.1% formic acid buffer and acetonitrile as the mobile phase under the condition of gradient elution. The analytes were detected with electrospray ionization source in negative ion mode (ESI-) and multiple reactions monitoring (MRM), and quantified by external standard curve.
    Results The method showed a good linearity of glucuronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, DL-2-hydroxybutyric acid sodium, benzilic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid and N-acetylneuraminic acid within the concentration range of 50.0‒2 000.0 μg·L-1r>0.995). The method showed a good linearity of glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and mandelic acid within the concentration range of 100.0‒5 000.0 μg·L-1r>0.995). The method showed a good linearity of lactobionic acid and gluconic acid within the concentration range of 50.0‒5 000.0 μg·L-1r>0.995). The recoveries were in the range of 92.3%‒114.1%; the relative standard deviations (RSD) were in the range of 0.9%‒6.0% (n=3). The detection limits of glucuronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, DL-2-hydroxybutyric acid sodium, mandelic acid, benzilic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconic acid and N-acetylneuraminic acid were 0.003% while the detection limits of glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid were 0.006%. In 10 batches of commercially available cosmetics, eight batches showed positive result.
    Conclusion The UHPLC-MS/MS method is efficient, sensitive and accurate and is applicable to the determination of 13 α-hydroxy acidic components in cosmetics.
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